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Included As One Of
Robert Parker’s “World Class Wineries”
Single Vineyard
Greatness From Radio-Coteau
2012
is a definite buy vintage. The wines are the finest we have seen since
2007. Radio-Coteau and owner winemaker Eric Sussman make some of the greatest
expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made in California today. When it
comes to North Coast Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers was included in the
list of â€world class producers: Aubert, DuMOL, Hartford Court, Marcassin,
Martinelli, Morlet Family Vinyards, Paul Hobbs, Peter Michael,
Radio-Coteau,
Rochioli. Sussman’s greatest Pinot Noir is the
2012
Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir â€Alberigi’
form the Russian River and we
have been able to secure a tiny allocation to offer. This is hard core Cult
Pinot of the highest order. The Alberigi Vineyard is sourced exclusively by
Coteau. Sussman fell in love with the fruit while working as assistant
Winemaker at Dehlinger. This will be a fast mover.
“The
following California wineries* could be called up-and-coming, although some of
them have already attained stardom. There are others I could include, but the
most interesting characteristic of these producers is that, with several
exceptions, none were making wine in 1990!”
— Robert Parker: Radio Coteau Winery.
*North
Coast, for Pinot Noir & Chardonnay:
Aubert, DuMOL, Hartford Court, Marcassin, Martinelli,
Morlet Family Vinyards, Paul Hobbs, Peter Michael,
Radio-Coteau,
Rochioli.
“Radio-Coteau
practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native
fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What
ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not,
these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention.”
– Antonio Galloni
From
Owner & Winemaker Eric Sussman
:
“In 2012 Mother Nature gave us a relieving break from the dramatic 2010 and
2011 vintages, and we had near-idyllic growing conditions. Spring provided a
healthy fruit set, a mellow summer allowed fruit extended hang-time, and a
fairly dry fall kept mildew pressure at bay. These elements allowed us to
strike that harmonious, yet often elusive, balance of keeping just enough fruit
on the vine while maintaining richness, intensity, and verve. We are proud of
our coastal cool climate vineyard terroir, yet we work with sites that are more
susceptible to harsh weather patterns, which can be difficult for later
ripening varietals such as Syrah and Zinfandel.
However, the growing degree
days of 2012 mirrored the classic 2009 vintage, and the grapes across the
varietals remained on the vines long enough to develop complexity.
Though a
few heat spells could have potentially pushed sugars up, we preferred to pick
for flavor and phenolic development as opposed to higher brix. Most of the
pinot was brought in before these temperature spikes, and we are pleased with
the results. With a few new vineyard sites in 2012 and an abundant year, we
were filled to the proverbial cellar brim. We practiced our minimalist approach
in the winery by ensuring healthy vines and impeccable fruit in the vineyards,
before it even reaches the cellar door. A keen eye kept on the vines, and
painstakingly maintaining balance throughout the year, has graced us with
exceptional wines, each expressing the personality of its unique growing
site.”
Radio-Coteau is deservedly a true “cult” winery. A cult
wine is one produced in very small quantities by a very skilled and
experienced winegrower and winemaker, sold and tightly allocated often through
a mailing list, distinguished by unique and special wines, and is known only to
the most dedicated wine geeks. The name Radio-coteau was derived from the
northern Rhone region of France. The colloquial meaning is “word of mouth,” but
the literal translation is “broadcasting from the hillside.” Eric first heard
this expression from a friend while living and working in Burgundy. It refers
to a commitment to community, to growers found by word of mouth, tradition
handed down in the cellar, and friends helping at harvest.
Eric developed an interest and passion for wine while studying
agriculture at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York, during the late
eighties. Inspired by wine’s unique connection with its place of origin, he set
out to work with and learn from world-class producers near and abroad. He
ventured to Washington’s Yakima Valley where he spent several years managing
the vines and cellar of a small artisan producer. He then moved on to France
and spent the 1995 vintage in Burgundy at Comte Armand in Pommard and Domaine
Jacques Prieur in Meursault. After returning to northern California, he worked
one year at Bonny Doon and from 1988-2001 as the associate winemaker at
Dehlinger. He then crossed paths with Bill and Joan Smith, former owners of La
Jota, and current owners of W.H. Smith Wines.
Together, they formed a
partnership that became Radio-Coteau Wine Cellars.
The Russian River Valley climate is sculpted by the regular
intrusion of cooling fog from the Pacific Ocean a few miles to the west. Much
like the tide, it ebbs and flows through the Petaluma Wind Gap and the channel
cut by the Russian River. The fog usually arrives in the evening, often
dropping the temperature 35 to 40 degrees from its daytime high. The fog
retreats to the ocean the following morning. This natural air-conditioning
allows the grapes to develop full flavor maturity over an extended growing
season — often 15 to 20 percent longer than neighboring areas — while retaining
their life-giving natural acidity. In the heart of this AVA (American
Viticultural Area) lies the
Alberigi Vineyard – sourced exclusively by
Radio-Coteau and farmed organically – on a stretch of Vine Hill Road renowned
for its Goldridge soils. Working with this special site for 10 years, the 2012
marks a decade’s worth of learning about the vineyard’s nuance, terroir, and
personality.
ric’s
tasting notes:
“The
2012 Alberigi is cherry red with bright clarity. Fresh red fruits dominate the
nose but flowers and spice are quick to vie for attention as well. The floral
quality is particularly interesting. There is a tension here that speaks of
more to come. The aromas that are present now: cherry, mixed berries, fall
forest, candied fruit and wildflowers are all wound very tight and just hinting
at themselves. The palate is also tightly knit. It is lightweight and pure yet
strong and energetic as well. The tannins are elegant and the acid is acute.
Balance and harmony are the key words for Alberigi this year. Expect this wine
to enter a sweet spot in a year or two and stay there for 6 to 8 more.”
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